Acadia National Park
On Saturday, following the last school day of the academic year 2020-21 we started from home at about 7:45 AM on June 26. Followed a scenic route instead of the I-90 towards Boston. We went East through southern Vermont, passing Burlington and Brattleboro, into New Hampshire. On the way stopped at a welcome stop near Bennington, VT and one around Hooksett, NH. Traveling east to reach I-95 N towards Portsmouth, NH and onwards to Maine. Crossed into Maine at 11:59, over the Piscataqua River Bridge. This is the southeastern end of New Hampshire’s boundary with Maine.
Passed Augusta, the capital for the state of Maine around 1:45 pm after stopping at a rest stop after Portland. Following the interstate route we crossed Bangor around 2:45 pm. An hour later we were close to our destination - Bar Harbor. At about 3:50 PM we stopped at the Udder Heaven Ice Cream Retreat and got some soft cone ice cream before reaching the Atlantic Eyrie Lodge.
Eyrie is a noun in English and means a large nest of a bird that preys – like an Eagle. The lodge is perched above the town and most if not all rooms have an open North-East view of the Frenchman Bay – the large body of ocean between the northeastern shoreline of the island and the southern coast of Maine.
Sunrise on Sunday June 26, looking out of the terrace at the Atlantic Eyrie.
Bar Harbor is the main town on Mount Desert Island. The name of the island is credited to the French explorer Samuel Chapman who came in 1604 and mountains with barren rocky peaks. He called it “Isle des Monts Deserts”
The original known people of the Desert Island were natives called “Wabanaki” – the people of the Dawnland. While none live there now after being moved to reservations on the mainland, a museum called the Abbe Museum, located in the town of Bar Harbor documents their culture and history.
Cadillac Mountain peak is the highest point of the east coast of the U.S. It offers views of the coast, as the mountain itself shaped over millions of years by glaciers and island landscape. There is a limit on the number of cars allowed up and one has to make a reservation. We had made two, the first was for 6:00 PM Saturday, and so we drove up to the checkpoint set up by the Park Rangers. The ranger who greeted us happened to be raised in Delmar, NY. This is the town where Durray-Shahwar’s school is located. It also turns out that his mother was a Mathematics Teacher at the Middle School. It is a small world!
While it was nice and quiet at the entry point, the top was foggy with high winds bringing in the ocean mist. We could barely see beyond a few feet and with the high wind gusts it was difficult to stand and so we had no choice but to retreat.
The wind was strong and it was driving in the ocean mist on top of Cadillac Mountain
Later we stopped at downtown Hannaford (a grocery store) in Bar Harbor to pick up a few rations.
Sunday morning we were to go for Whale watching. Just as we were seated to drive to the boat pier, a message informed us of the trip's cancellation due to rough seas. Our changed itinerary started at Sand Beach. It is a small beach – a total length of about 300 yards, enclosed between mountains and rocky shores on the east side of the island. The sand is not ordinary, it consists largely of shell fragments created by the repeated pounding surf. The waterline can vary quite a bit because of the difference between high and low tide. We were there at low tide and could see the receding lines marked by retreating waters. Walked on the beach. Sea weeds were strewn around, left by the earlier high tide.
The sand beach - where the sand is made from living organisms. The island over my right shoulder is known as the big soaker. One can see the weeds that come in and a couple of lines made as the tide receded
Atop the lifeguard chair at the sand beach.
Next hiked to Thunder Hole about 0.7 mile and at a higher altitude. Stopped on the way for photo snaps on the rocky shores. It is a naturally formed inlet, and just below it is a small cavern just below the water surface. When the right size wave rolls into the inlet, a deep thunderous sound emanates. The cause being the wave motion, as one wave pulls back just before the other peak arrives, air enters the cavern. As the wave arrives with full force it collides with the air and forces it out. And that is the thunder sound heard. Water may splash into the air as high as 40 feet with a roar!
On the way to Thunder hole.
At the Thunder hole - at bottom one may see where the waves pound in.
Walking down after viewing the thunder hole drove around the loop to reach a packed Jordan Pond stop at about 10 AM. No parking was available so we went to the official Welcome center with the customary souvenir shop, ticket and information booth.
The next visit was to the Schoodic Peninsula. The peninsula is the only part of Acadia National Park located on the mainland of Maine. It is more secluded but has panoramic views of Frenchman Bay and Mount Desert Island. We specifically stopped at Schoodic Point, the southern tip of the peninsula. The scape had granite rocks, aged and shaped over millennia and a pounding surf. For me, it conjured up thoughts of why places at the edge attract humans – places like canyons, crevices, space, peaks and the furious waves crashing on the rocks. Perhaps it arouses the inquisitive child in all of us – asking “what lies beyond?”
Schoodic point - though it was foggy, windy the pounding waves made an impression as they have been doing over the millennia.
On the way back from Schoodic point we stopped at a McDonalds for salt free chips and a Cheeseburger. Then it was a drive through downtown Bar Harbor, and a stop at the grocery store. We were quite tired and slept early.
Utilizing our other reservation, on Monday morning 6:30 AM we drove up Cadillac mountain summit viewpoint again. It was a clear crisp view this time. A middle aged man, who presumably had come to capture the sunrise, still had his camera setup on a tripod. People can claim that they were the first to see the dawn of a new day in the USA and pay an additional fee to come up early. There was a family with a young girl and a younger son, who walked down the boulders and back up. The young ones were commended by Durray-Shahwar and their parents were appreciative.
A view from Cadillac Mountain as the sun streams through, and a chance to grab an auto snap.
After spending an hour or so at the summit we stopped at Jordan's Pond. At the entrance point we shared the view with a family of four kids, 3 boys 1daughter (the youngest). Their mother was quite friendly and volunteered to take a picture of us. Sajid reciprocated.
Jordan Pond is a small lake formed by a glacier. The view is marked by two bubble-like peaks at its southern end. The maximum water depth is 150 feet (46 m). There are steep inclines on the left and right sides (West and East). The water is exceptionally clear with an average visibility depth of 46 feet (14 m) but this has been measured as high as 60 feet (18 m).
At Jordan's pond - the small glacial lake.
After the two early stops, we came back to our lodgings and had bagels with cheese and coffee for breakfast.
Next was a walk on the Sand bar that connects the town of Bar Harbor with a small island called the Bar island to the northwest of the town pier. During low tides one can walk over the somewhat wet gravel and sandy surface. People are welcome to explore the rocks, find shells, seaweed and other organisms, or to walk over to the Bar Island. Vehicles are allowed during periods of low tide. Twice during a day the tide turns and water could be as much as 3 meters above the sand bar. It is this sand bar that gives the town its name.
One may notice a path between the small island at the center top and the town below - Sand Bar at Bar Harbor
On the sand bar - going in and on the way back.
Saw people who were all alone, quietly walking around the bar, perhaps reflecting. Aged couples like one on the Sand bar looking at an ID tag on a rock left behind by the high tide - careful not to touch. Other couples, old and middle aged, enjoying each other's company. Others in larger groups - all adults or with a few kids. Couples with a newly born or expecting one.
The day was warm to hot as we walked around the main tourist streets. At a park next to the town’s main boat pier we stopped and took in the views of the ocean, with sailboats, people going out kayaking - some experienced, others learning. A private yacht being boarded by invited folks, perhaps for a party out on the ocean. A lady sitting on a camping chair reading a book and taking in the view. Sajid then stopped and picked up iced coffee for himself and a small blueberry pie for me. Wild blueberries are quite common in Maine and the only thing that one can legally take out of the Acadia National Park. The pie was fresh and good, though the wait was long.
At the right is the private yacht and at the left the lady with a book and a shade
Some rest followed at the room before leaving at 12:30 PM for a horse driven carriage ride within the Acadia National Park. The carriage ride follows roads originally built during 1913 – 1940. A fact to note is that the Acadia National Park is the only park that was built without forcibly requiring the then landowners to give up their property. A lot of negotiations went on and even today there are people who have homes within the Park.
Do you notice something interesting on the road sign?
The horses, we were told, were named Mary and Moses - half siblings. I thought the names to be interesting - revered by Semetic religions. They were draft or draught horses, of the English Shire breed. The draft horses are bred for tasks such as pulling carriages or plows. They are well built and larger than normal racing or riding horses. Besides us 3 there was another group of 3 including a 6 year old boy who asked interesting questions. In normal times the carriage could carry 12 but the numbers were restricted for pandemic reasons and masks were required.
On our return from the carriage ride, we drove again through the town, looked over the sand bar, now submerged. Another, final loop of the park was followed by getting soft ice cream cones before concluding the tour and returning to the nest.
Tuesday morning we started back at about 6:55 AM. Crossing Maine-New Hampshire state line Piscatuqua bridge at 10:43. This time we came through Massachusetts, and entered New York state at 1:55 PM reaching home about 3 PM.